THINGS ARE STILL PEACHY ON TOMICHI (Creek that is, near Gunnison, CO)

Early August 2023

For my earlier trips to Tomichi Creek, see: http://hooknfly.com/2016/07/17/daley-gulch-double-on-tomichi-creek-near-gunnison-colorado/; http://hooknfly.com/2018/06/24/day-2-of-the-tomichi-creek-trifecta-near-gunnison-co-the-lower-canyon-stretch/

When you have lived three-quarters of a century, your mind often wanders back to friends and colleagues that have enriched your life.  A couple of times a month I find myself getting on the phone (a cell phone, not a rotary dial model) and calling old buddies, former business partners, and the like, just to see how they are doing.  Or when I am making my annual migrations back and forth between the Everglades in Florida and the high country of Colorado, I stop in to see the old gang and reminisce about the good times we had.  In the back of my mind is always the question, will this be the last time our paths will cross.  These aren’t sad affairs, far from it.  They warm my heart and fill me with gratitude.

River and creeks are the same way. I now find myself wanting to revisit waters that I haven’t called on for a while, those that treated me to a memorable day of fly fishing along with a needed dose of nature and solitude. Some require a hike into a rugged canyon that my old knees may not allow in the future. Others are tricky wading with fast currents that my once cat-like reflexes could easily handle but now may result in a cold dunking…and maybe worse, like a broken hip.

This year several of this genre are on my dance card—Chavez Creek near Upper Dome Lake, the headwaters of Saguache and Cochetopa Creeks in the La Garita Wilderness, and Grape Creek in a remote canyon come to mind. All take some doing to get to. Another closer to home, Tomichi Creek, I find from my fishing journal I haven’t visited in almost four years despite its being only 45 minutes away from my cabin near Salida. She’s different than the others in that access and wading are easy. But she is one that I feel I must look after to make sure she’s still doing OK. If not, I may have to raise a little ruckus about the situation with the proper authorities.

For many years I would whiz by Tomichi Creek when traveling busy US Highway 50 on my way from my cabin to fish the fabled waters of the Gunnison River and its tributaries like the East River.  Then in 2016, as I hustled down Monarch Pass just above the village of Sargents, I happened to see an official looking sign on a fence separating the stream from the highway, so I turned around to take a look.  I was pleasantly surprised to find that that the Colorado State Land Board owns a full section of land along the road called Daley Gulch that is open to fishing. 

Tomichi Creek/Daley Gulch Near Sargents

I made a mental note, and a few months later sampled her waters.  I had a delightful day, catching some hard-fighting brown trout, several of which hit the 14-inch mark, not bad for a little creek less that 20 feet wide.  The wildflowers along the stream were a bonus as was not seeing many boot marks.  Later I would find another public stretch in a canyon just below Sargents and again had a banner day chasing brown trout.

Tomichi Creek Public Water West Of Sargents

Now five years have passed, and I am anxious to see how my friendly neighborhood creek has fared.  Over this period, most of Colorado has been locked in a deep drought that has resulted in streams like Tomichi Creek and the Conejos River in southern Colorado being subjected to periodic closures in the summer due to low water flows and high temperatures that can be deadly to trout.  Indeed, last summer when I was making my annual trip to the headwaters of Saguache Creek high in the La Garita Wilderness, I winced when passed by Tomichi Creek and saw it was barely a trickle. Further down towards Gunnison where water is sucked out for irrigation, the situation was even worse. It was like seeing an old friend on life support. 

Like many waters in this part of Colorado, Tomichi Creek has a fascinating and often troubling history intertwined with mining.  The creek was reportedly named along with a nearby peak from a Ute word for “dome-shaped rock.”  Once silver was discovered in its watershed in the late 1800s, the creek had a rough go of it.  The town of Tomichi, originally called Argenta, the derivative of the Latin word for silver, was by 1882 a booming mining camp with its own post office and bank, with a population of over 1,000.  But it didn’t last long as the silver had to be transported over a very rough road 12 miles to the railhead in Sargents and periodic avalanches tore up the road and obliterated the mines.  Even today, the damage from the mining can still be seen in the headwaters around White Pine where the U.S. Forest Service has undertaken major reclamation efforts. 

Reclamation Work On Upper Tomichi Creek Near White Pine (Spelling Lessons Underway For “Tomichi”)

But in the meantime, in the lower reaches in the valley below, while the native cutthroat are gone, a substantial population of spunky brown trout have made the creek their home.  Amazing what nature can do when given time to recover.

Fortunately, this past winter the snows in the rugged mountains above the Tomichi were deep, and spring rains added to the flows.  When I checked the Colorado Division Of Water Resources streamflow  site (dwr.state.co.us) in early August I was happy to see the creek flowing at 40 cfs at Sargents, a near perfect angling level.  It was time to visit my old friend and make sure she was doing OK.

I’m on the road at 7:30 a.m. winding my way over Monarch Pass.  It’s a short drive to the public stretch of the creek upstream of Sargents, so I’m soon at the gate below a big CDOT work site and then walking through the marshy terrain to the creek. I’ve rigged up my 8 ½ foot, 4 wt rod with a #16 gold body Chubby Chernobyl to imitate the scads of yellow hoppers in the meadow teamed with a #18 beadhead sparkle caddis larva.  Caddis and mayflies love the Tomichi. 

The Deadly Duo–Chubby Chernobyl (top) and Beadhead Sparkle Caddis Larva

I walk downstream to a wide bend in the creek and start working up.  Surprisingly, in the first few good-looking pools where I have fooled trout before, today I draw a goose egg.  I am already worrying that the creek isn’t doing so well since the last time I was here, which seems like just yesterday but was back in the summer of 2018.  Then I come to a big bend in the creek that’s created a deep pool.  The shoreline is covered with a profusion of gorgeous wildflowers—shooting stars, marsh buttercups, sunflowers, and daisies.  I christen it the Wildflower Power Pool—and it delivers. 

Wildflower Power Pool

Skyrockets

On the very first cast a spry little brownie nails the Chubby and puts up a good tussle before coming in for a quick photo and release. He’s followed quickly by another half dozen, one topping 13-inches. 

The action is steady as I work upstream. Soon I come to what I call the Leaning Tower Of Trout that shelters a short rapid which feeds into a deep pool. 

The Famous Leaning Tower Of Trout

It never disappoints, and this time not only treats me with a couple of nice brownies but also surprises with the first and only brook trout of the day. 

Surprise Brookie

That’s followed by some action at  the old reliable irrigation diversion pool that harbors some big fish.  It produces a couple of good browns, one on the dry and one on the dropper. 

Irrigation Diversion Dam Pool Harbors Hungry Brownies

The second fish that took the Chubby is himself a tad chubby, a sure candidate for Weight Watchers.

Chubby Brownie Can’t Resist Chubby Chernobyl

Now I start to see a few boot marks as I get closer to the CDOT work site.  The creek here is easier to access via the official parking area close to the CDOT facility and gets more pressure.  However, as it has in the past, a big bend pool in this stretch produces a fine 14-inch brown that will be the biggest fish of the morning.

Beautiful Brown Trout Caps A Good Morning

I sit on the bank reflecting as I release the handsome fish.  It appears my old friend Tomichi is just peachy!  Now I wonder about the nearby canyon stretch just downstream of Sargents a mile or so.  It is so close to the highway, literally a stone’s throw, that perhaps it hasn’t fared so well.  It’s lunch time, so I decide to hustle down there, grab some victuals and an RC Cola to reenergize, then do take its temperature.

I park my SUV at a wide turnout on the north side of the highway and after a leisurely lunch make my way cautiously across the highway feeling a bit like an overmatched matador in a bull ring.  I manage to avoid getting clipped by a couple of speeding pickups, then walk down a short distance and bushwhack my way through a stand of dense willows to the creek. 

My first view boosts my spirits.  The water is a clean green tint and there’s plenty of current.  In the very first pool a nice brownie smacks the Chubby as it swirls around a big rock midstream.  The good action continues on both the Chubby and the dropper as I work upstream.  Interestingly, last time when I was here and the water was low, the fish were hiding in deeper runs along undercut banks.  It took precise casts and drifts close against the shoreline to coax them out.  Today with ample water I find them out carousing for food in faster, deeper runs away from the bank.  That’s where I fool a brawling brownie that pushes 14-inches, then another sleek beauty below a rock ledge.

By now it’s almost five p.m., and I come to a deep pool that edges close to the highway, so close I can see vehicles speeding by.  I come up empty and start to see lots more boot marks along the shoreline.  Maybe time to call it a day?  No, something tells me that the heavy willow growth I can see crowding the creek downstream may have dissuaded would-be anglers from venturing further.  I have my chest waders on so can navigate to the next alluring bend pool in the creek instead of hackashacking through those pesky willows.    I think to myself, “one more fish and I’ll call it a day.” I loft a cast upstream above the bend and watch as the Chubby bounces jauntily along in the current before swirling into the enticing green water of the pool.  Then it’s disappears!  I set the hook, and a shimmering golden brownie swirls on the surface with the sparkle caddis fly in his mouth.  He cavorts back and forth before relenting. 

Last Fish Of The Day

As I release the beauty, I think to myself, perseverance pays…nothing like catching one last fish on the last cast of the day.  I tip my hat to my old friend Tomichi Creek, pleased to know she’s still doing just fine.

Grape Creek:  The Curious Case Of The Rambunctious Rainbow Resurgence

Late July 2023

For some of my earlier trips on Grape Creek, see: http://hooknfly.com/2022/08/05/grape-creek-comeback/

Grape Creek near Westcliffe, Colorado, is one of my favorite waters.  Flowing some 20+ miles in a remote canyon between DeWeese Reservoir and Canon City with only five public access points, over the past decade it has proven to be a great brown trout fishery plus providing an occasional thrill of a big rainbow.  But like most rivers in the West, Grape Creek has faced a series of threats including a huge gold mine in its watershed and wildly fluctuating water levels caused by irrigation demands and drought that have left water levels so low as to almost dry up the stream in summer.  More recently a series of catastrophic floods in 2019 scoured insects and fish from the stream, leaving it a mere shadow of its former self.

I experienced firsthand the deleterious impacts of these floods when in 2020 I led a visiting fishing buddy from Florida on an expedition into the canyon, having promised him hungry fish, only to narrowly avoid being skunked after six hours of flailing the water.  Two puny, malnourished brown trout helped avoid that ignominy.  Fortunately, by my next outing on the creek in the summer of 2022 with the same buddy my reputation was restored–we fooled a couple of dozen brown trout, including a leviathan of 18-inches, in addition to a surprisingly good number of smaller rainbows.

Big Brownie Certifies Grape Creek Comeback

Later that fall I returned and found the rainbows outnumbering the brownies on the same stretch.   It started me wondering what was up. Was this natural recovery and reproduction by those rainbows or had some fish escaped from DeWeese Reservoir miles upstream or migrated from the Arkansas River below? Maybe some stocking going on, although these rainbows didn’t have the bland colors and frayed fins common with hatchery trout.

Now it’s fast forward to 2023, and I am embarking on my first trip of the year to Grape Creek, a pre-birthday celebration as I turn three-quarters of a century old tomorrow!  The weather is perfect as is the water level which has been a steady 23 cfs the past week.  I have bushwhacked down into the canyon several miles below the lake. 

Into The Wild Canyon

I am using my TFO 4# rod with a #16 Chubby Chernobyl in anticipation of a major hopper hatch with a #18 Tung Teaser to imitate the scads of mayfly nymphs I find scrambling around when I pick up a rock from the streambed. 

I strike out in the first pool, but the second and third produce some smaller rainbows and browns.  Not the hot action I expected.  I check the rocks again and find far more caddis cases and larva, so switch the dropper to a #18 beadhead sparkle caddis larva.  That proves to be the ticket. 

The Deadly Duo–Gold Chubby Chernobyl
and Beadhead Sparkle Caddis

Now the action is fast and furious.  In a run below a short stretch of rapids I fool a couple of muscular rainbows, one almost 14-inches. 

Rainbow On!

Next pool I get more rainbows and one 13-inch brownie, most on the dropper. 

That pattern continues as I net another dozen fish by lunch in addition to several long-distance releases. But surprisingly, the rainbows predominate as I catch four bows to every brown, a remarkable turnabout from the years before the floods.

I again mull over the mystery as wolf down my lunch and quaff my RC Cola elixir.  Natural reproduction?  DeWeese or Arkansas River migrants?  Stockers?  I soon head downstream to test the various hypothesis with some serious piscatorial research.  Now the hopper hatch is in full swing, and the Chubby Chernobyl excels as I work back upstream. 

Hopper Hatch = Feeding Frenzy

I come to a favorite pool created by a giant boulder about 10 feet below a shallow rapid. 

Big Boulder Honey Hole Pool And Rapids Above

I catch a rainbow and brown in the pool, then am surprised by a big rainbow that smashes the Chubby as it bounces down the rapids above.  As soon as he feels the sting of the hook, pandemonium breaks loose as the feisty finned creature goes shooting downstream right by me.  I do a graceful pirouette while issuing some choice expletives and then give chase.  But just as I catch up with the rascal, he shoots back upstream past the boulder and actually climbs through the rapids into the pool above, much like a wild salmon would do.  I reverse course and fortunately catch up when he decides to take a little rest.  I finally slide my net under a beautiful, strapping 15-inch rainbow! 

Rambunctious Rainbow

In the next pool downstream, I coax a 14-inch neon rainbow to strike as well as a respectable 13-inch brownie.  For the next couple of hours I fool two or three trout in every pool or decent run.  Overall for the day, I catch and release over three dozen fish with a 4:1 ratio of rainbows vs. brooks—almost just the opposite of the pattern before the floods.  What gives??  The bows look and act wild with freckles all over their faces, sleek, perfect streamlined bodies, and plenty of spunk. 

Several weeks later I navigate the rough, narrow 4wd road down to the creek at Bear Gulch, one of the few public access points.

View From Bear Gulch Road!

The creek here flows through a large spectacular Bureau of Land Management wilderness study area.

I saunter up the stunning canyon, taking time to enjoy the abundant wildflowers, butterflies, and groves of giant cottonwoods along the creek.

I have another excellent day catching and releasing a couple of dozen fish. The rainbow/ brown split is about 50:50 compared to my past forays when the browns outnumbered the rainbows nearly 10:1 in this stretch. Most of the fish measure 10-14 inches, although I see a few larger finning in the depths of some deep pools.

Rainbow Pool

Now I am really flummoxed.  So I make a mental note to contact the Salida office of Colorado Parks and Wildlife (CPW) to see what they think is behind the rainbow resurgence up and down Grape Creek. 

When I called the next week I am lucky to connect with Alex Townsend, the helpful, knowledgeable aquatic biologist for the Arkansas River region, and he gave me the real skinny.  Rainbows, a variety of which had been stocked throughout the creek since the late 1980s, were virtually wiped out by the floods of 2019.  He tells me the brown trout seem to persist well in this system, bounce back better with natural reproduction, and are already showing some population growth, albeit slow.  However, the flooding gave him a chance to stock a new whirling disease-resistant strain of rainbow trout that is a cross between a Hofer from Germany, that is naturally resistant, with rainbow from the Gunnison River.  The Gunnison rainbows seem to have some natural resistance, are strong, wild fish, and have shown reproductive success.  He hoped that stocking these rainbows would give them a head start over the browns that seem to do well on their own.  He added that because the browns and rainbows have a somewhat different forage base and habitat, while there may be some competition, they don’t fully overlap.  Also, they do not use the same reproductive habitat during the same time of the year—browns spawn in the fall and rainbows in the spring.  My own experience this year and in the past supports Townsend’s point—I have caught many rainbows in faster, shallower water than browns which seem to favor deeper pools and slower runs.

CPW began stocking the hybrid rainbows from the Mt. Shavano Fish Hatchery near Salida in 2021 to the tune of 15,000 per year in 7-8 locations from the confluence of Grape Creek with the Arkansas near Canon City up to below DeWeese Reservoir.  He added that the stocked fish were about 2”-3” in size with an annual growth rate of about three inches although this is highly dependent on habitat and forage. Some fish will grow faster and some slower, he explained.  (The 15-incher I caught must have been feasting on those new steroid-infused hopper flies you can get at Ark Anglers.)  Townsend noted that next year he will be evaluating the population through electrofishing to determine if natural reproduction is occurring.

After hearing this explanation from Alex, I felt a bit like the inimitable Mr. Watson having just been educated by a piscatorial Sherlock Holmes, Townsend having provided a cogent explanation of the curious case of the resurgent rainbows. Quite elementary my dear Mr. Watson!!  It also gave me an even greater appreciation of the fine, hard-working folk at CPW like Alex.  Kudos to them for protecting and enhancing our rivers and streams.  They have created and maintained a wonderful fishery in Grape Creek with a vibrant mix of rainbows and browns. With climate change, habitat loss, and myriad other pressures our waters face, I am more thankful than ever for their efforts.  If you have some spare time, Alex and his CPW colleagues are periodically looking for volunteers to assist in their important projects—give them a ring at 719-539-5520.

A Hidden Gem: Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park (Florida)

July 2023

I was pleased to see my article on fishing and exploring Florida’s largest and wildest state park–the Fakahatchee Strand Preseve–featured in the Hidden Gems section of the latest issue of Florida Sportsman magazine. “Hidden Gem” is often an overused adjective, but the preserve lives up to that accolade. From feisty snook to tarpon to lunker largemouth bass and outsized Mayan Cichlids, it is definitely a delectable angling smorgasbord featuring scenic and productive freshwater lakes, salt water tidal creeks, and brackish ponds and canals. Did I mention all the critters you are likely to encounter like manatees, gators, scads of graceful wading birds in addition to rare and beautiful flowers such as Cardinal Air Plants and assorted orchids? You may even get lucky and see a rare Florida Panther or a Florida Mink like I did. It offers something for everyone, from families with kiddos like my little sweetheart granddaughter Aly to fly fishing experts. Hope you enjoy the tour with me–just click on the pdf links below for a copy of the article.

A Magical Mystery Tour

Mid-July 2023

With the big runoff of 2023 here in Colorado finally abating, I took a week in the backcountry to explore some new creeks for articles in American Fly Fishing. I set up my mobile fish camp in the excellent Woods and River RV Park on the banks of the Rio Grande River in Del Norte. Then it was off for three days of recon on some remote, beautiful waters. Aside from some dicey moments on several rugged 4wd tracks that threatened to dislodge my dental work, the exploratory trips could not have gone better. The weather was beautiful, the scenery spectacular, the waters fishable, and the fish famished. You can read about these adventures, including a little-known water with rare Rio Grande Cutthroats, in upcoming issues of my favorite magazine.

Figuring I had earned a few lazy days, I rose late the next morning and decided to fish some waters closer by with easier access. Boy, glad I did. The first two I took a look at were still too high and muddy from the runoff, but the third was eminently fishable albeit a tad cloudy. I rigged up my 4-weight TFO wand with a #16 Royal Stimulator that my aging eyes could easily follow in the foam and dropped a #16 red and pink beadhead San Juan Worm a couple of feet below it. I find that color combo surprisingly effective during runoff. Go figure.

On my first cast at the bottom of a good-looking pool, a Lilliputian 8-inch brookie nailed the worm. At least I wouldn’t get skunked. Several casts later further up in the depths of the pool, the Stimi was yanked under uncermoniously, and when I set the hook a big fish rolled on the surface and dived. He tore upstream, then reversed and headed for a big snag on the other bank. My rod bent perilously as I winched him back into the hole. The fight lasted several minutes including one mad rush the fish made to get downstream below me into some fast water that would have likely snapped my leader. With some fancy footwork, I managed to cut him off and finally netted the leviathan–a gorgeous rainbow that pushed 20-inches! It took several minutes for my blood pressure to settle down. I would catch another dozen or so brookies over the next hour, but my day was made.

Next day I did some touring and sight-seeing with my favorite photographer, Ms. Jodi Bol who had captured the big rainbow in that gorgeous photo. But when I spied an alluring meadow stretch of a wild and wooly canyon creek I had fished years ago, she was kind enough to grant me dispensation to make a few casts. While the water was high and flowing fast, it was clear. I opted to drop a beadhead sparkle caddis larva beneath the Royal Stimulator to imitate the numerous fat cased caddis larva I spied under streambed rocks. In the first pool, I fooled several brownies which is all I caught my last time on this water. But in the next pool I nice rainbow surprised me by inhaling the Stimi as it careened downstream in a fast run. Another rainbow followed, loving that fast water.

In the next pool, much shallower, something smacked the dropper and took off in a frantic run upstream. Imaging my surprise when it turned out to be a feisty, colorful little brook trout. A couple of his buddies followed suit. Now it dawned on me that I have a surprise Slam–three different kinds of trout from the same stream. With my wading staff assisting, I danced a little jig on the slippery rocks, not a mean feat for a septuagenarian. Fortunately, Ms. Bol was out photographing wildflowers so the event was not memorialized.

But the real celebration soon followed when I was shocked to hook and land a handsome cuttbow, an orange slash under his mouth certifying I had a Grand Slam–four different kinds of trout. Now I have had several slams over the course of my angling career, but none more surprising or unexpected. And to top the day off, my last fish of the day a few minutes laters was a handsome, hard-fighting brownie, an exclamation point on a fine two hours of fishing.

Here’s a video recounting the two days and to prove they actually took place. We all know how anglers tend to exaggerate and even prevericate, present company partially excepted:

I am calling it my magical mystery tour–can anyone out there guess which stream yielded the Grand Slam?? What about the the water inhabited by that Brobingnagian rainbow?

Solving The Runoff Riddle: Off To See The Wizards Of Gnaws

Early June 2023

I am back in Colorado from Florida just in time for the annual spring runoff that blows out all my favorite rivers and creeks.  Saguache Creek in the San Luis Valley that fishes well at 40-50 cfs is a rambunctious 260 cfs.  And the Big Ark near Salida that I can just wade safely across at 400 cfs is rolling at 2200 cfs.  To complicate matters, most of my preferred high alpine lakes are still frozen or inaccessible because of deep snow drifts on the trails up.  So, what to do?  I could break out my float tube and drive over to Antero or Spinney Reservoirs in South Park near Fairplay and join the pontoon flotilla and motorboat brigade—and probably catch some giant trout.  But that’s not my scene.  For my money, a better option if you are seeking solitude and wild fish (and even some surprisingly big ones) is beaver ponds.  

Pursued by the Spanish and Pilgrims, then trapped to near extinction in the US in the mid-1800s, beavers have staged a remarkable recovery.  That history, from pre-colonial times to the present, is chronicled in an engrossing book entitled Eager Beavers Matter by Ben Goldfarb. 

Beavers are particularly important in the dry western US where they create wetlands, help conserve water, AND as an added bonus for anglers, fashion inviting habitat for trout–a true foundational species in many areas.  As Professor Tom Lovejoy, a former colleague of mine at the World Wildlife Fund, wrote in review, “Eager is the stunning story of beavers—so integral to early human landscapes of North America—and their function in support of people and later the American economy.  Literally nature’s “Corps of Engineers,” beavers today play vital roles in restoring watersheds, landscapes, and flood control throughout the continent.  To view them just as a cute animal with a flat tail is to trivialize the central player in both history and modern-day landscape ecology.”

Now admittedly, to catch trout in beaver ponds can be a real challenge, both physically and mentally, but offers great rewards. I have learned this through the school of hard knocks over the past five decades and have shared some tips and rules for fishing beaver ponds in earlier posts, such as always approaching a beaver pond from below the dam. (For more beaver pond fishing tips, see my earlier article from 2019: http://hooknfly.com/2019/07/06/beaver-pond-perspicacity-solving-the-puzzle/. I will have great days and some not so good, but isn’t that trout fishing in a nutshell? Fortunately, almost every region in Colorado has its share of productive beaver ponds. Around Salida in south central Colorado we are lucky to have a surfeit—Silver, Pass, Fooses, Greens, and Little Cochetopa Creeks to name just a few.

Now having spent several days unloading my SUV after from my annual migration from Florida, tidying up my cabin, and the bird feeders full, I figured have earned a day on the water. I do a little recon on a creek only a few miles from my house, and things look good. Through the thicket along a bumpy gravel road that parallels the creek, I catch glimpses of several beaver ponds that seem to be in good shape despite a lot of runoff and rain this spring. And because the mornings have been cold in the 40s, I won’t have to be up at the crack of dawn tomorrow.

After a leisurely breakfast, I arrive at the chosen location around 9:30 a.m., a turnout that is a short walk to an opening in the brush and trees that according to Google Maps will lead to the series of nice-looking beaver ponds that have been good to me in the past. 

Into The Wilds

I slip on my chest waders—beaver ponds can have deep and mucky holes and it’s much too cold for wet wading this time of year.  The water will register a chilly 42 degrees when I break out my thermometer later in the morning. 

As I head into the thicket, wild rose bushes grasp at my waders (Leave the expensive Simms ones at home!), and the sharp thorns of the currant bushes prick my arms.  I march on resolutely down the increasingly steep slope, my wading staff saving me from a couple of ignominious falls.   Soon I am smiling when I see water shimmering in a pond below.  But when I emerge from the tangle, my heart sinks.  The big dam has been blown out, draining the pond that now only has a few inches of water over what was a deep pool.

Sad remains of former hot spot pond

I mope about hoping to spot a fin, but nary a trout remains to be seen.  I shake my head.  The dam and pond have apparently been victims of a huge storm and flood that hit the area late last August that blew out culverts in the valley below.  I look upstream and see that all may not be lost.  As the little creek cascades from the narrows above, it swirls around a couple of rocks and creates some small pools that just may harbor a fish.  I’ll give it a try.

Trout Hideaway??

I’m using short 7.5 foot, 3-weight fly rod rigged with a #16 Crystal Royal Stimulator dry fly and a #16 red bead head San Juan Worm dropper.  The water is stained from the runoff, and I will try other droppers throughout the day—from tiny zebra midges to bushy olive wooly buggers, but the San Juan Worm will rule. 

The Dynamic Beaver Pond Duo

The first two casts the flies float down the middle of the foam line in the narrow creek.  But on the third I nudge the dry closer to the quiet postage-sized backwater behind one of the rocks and just out of the fast current.  WHOOSH!  A silvery fish rockets out of the water and smashes the Stimi.  Startled, I still manage to set the hook after a slight hesitation that I attribute to a slight case of rustiness due to six months away from a trout stream.  Obviously could have nothing to do with aging reflexes! The trout cavorts upstream to a little waterfall then reverses course and rushes back to his hideaway.  I slowly work him out from behind the rock and ease him into the net where he pushes 12-inches—a respectable start! 

Let The Fun Begin

I continue bushwacking upstream following the creek up the slope to another beaver dam that I can see through the tangle of brush and downed tree branches.  When I finally emerge, the warm glow from that first fish evaporates—damn, another blown out dam, wrecked just as thoroughly as the first although Google Maps depicts it as brim full!  Tip:  Google Maps satellite photos are notoriously out of date in remote areas like this.  Ground-truthing mandatory.

I resolutely press on and find the third pond also to be a mere shadow of its former self.  And to make matters worse, the thicket above this one appears impenetrable.  I’m going to have to detour up the slope on the opposite side of the dry pond where the vegetation appears to open up a bit.  After some grasping, grunting, and clawing up the hill, I manage to find a route upstream that appears less suicidal.  Along the way I take a short rest surrounded by a carpet of beautiful yellow wild sweet peas that are buzzing with bumble bees. 

Then I spot an odd brown spherical shape in the forest floor that turns out to be a giant puffball of the Sclerodermataceae family of fungi. 

Puff The Magic…

When I poke it, the puffball emits a cloud of brown spores that waft away in the gentle breeze. Like Clinton, I didn’t inhale.

I continue on and in a few minutes, I am looking down at a beautiful dam that actually has a pond with a decent amount of water behind it.  I gingerly zig-zag down the steep slope with the help of my trusty wading staff and emerge onto a muddy sandbar that I see some big elk have recently traversed to get themselves a drink of water from the pond. 

Elk Track

Then I see it—another big track in the mud.  I think first “bear” but then see it 4 toes instead of 5 and a big palm pad, which means mountain lion. 

Sign Of The Cat!

My skin starts to prickle as I survey the surrounding forest for the cat.  This county reportedly has more cougars than any in Colorado, but I have set to see one in the wild.  Not that I want to!  

When my nerves settle down, I inch up towards a foam line that spills into a deeper hole where I can’t see the bottom. 

On my second cast in the foam line, the dry is yanked under as something eats the San Juan Worm.  It’s a frisky little brown trout, but I figure something bigger has to be lurking around that dead tree stump jutting from the bottom. 

Tiny Tyke Falls For San Juan Worm

After releasing the little tyke I cast again into the foam line above the deep hole.  The dry drifts near the stump and suddenly it’s gone.  I set the hook and my rod bends double.  A big brown trout rolls on the surface and dives towards the snag.  I put the brakes on him and after a worthy battle, the brownie slides into the net, pushing 14-inches! 

Muscular Wild Brown Caps The Morning

He will be the biggest of the day.  Score another for the San Juan Worm. 

I make a dozen more casts in the pond, but come up empty, so start bushwhacking upstream again.  I soon am scrambling up on another beaver dam that has backed up a decent looking pond with a nice foam line coursing down its middle. 

Promising Pool

There are plenty of signs of beaver activity. 

Busy Beavers!

I fish the entire foam line thoroughly and am surprised not to spark any interest.  The water just doesn’t have enough depth as it did a year ago. My guess is the dam was blown out and then rebuilt by the indefatigable beavers, but the fish haven’t yet returned.  I’m about to continue upstream, but then spot what appears be a side channel on the other side of the pond and deftly wade across to discover a beautiful waterfall that I hope will be a stairway to angling heaven. 

Stairway To Angling Heaven??

The creek has split and cascades steeply downhill into a couple of captivating small ponds with all the makings of honey holes.  I pick my way carefully down the slope and then kneel to cast towards the deeper water at the foot of the small dam.  Again, after multiple casts, nothing doing.

 I reverse course and climb back up the waterfall and continue to the last two ponds that are a short trek upstream. 

Up The Down Staircase

When I mount the first dam, again I am flummoxed.  Both dams have been breached in the middle, and the ponds aren’t not deep enough to float a duck.  Looks like the end of the day as I climb the slope to my waiting SUV.

But wait!  After recharging with a can of RC Cola elixir and a hearty lunch, I refuse to give in and decide to drive upstream a mile or so to another set of beaver ponds with big dams that may have been able to survive last year’s torrent.  As I round the bend just above a couple of the ponds, I see indeed they have and are in good shape, showing signs of recent beaver activity.

Beaver Pond Nirvana

The first dam is so big I decide not to risk scaling it but opt to skirt around its south side.

This requires clambering up a steep slope with occasional crawling, then sliding down to the pond oh so gracefully on my derriere.  But it pays off.  The pond is plenty deep and features a tempting foam line below the next dam upstream. 

Foam Line Follies

On my very first cast, an eager little brook trout nails the San Juan Worm.  

Hungry Brookie Kicks Off The Afternoon

Three more follow quick succession, then I start to work a good-looking spot just above two converging foam lines.  The Royal Stimulator alights daintily just below the outreaching tentacles of several overhanging branches. 

Promising Quiet Slot Between Two Foam Lines

Pinpoint casting, I congratulate myself on, although admittedly luck may have had something to do with it.  Then I notice the Stimi is gone and set the hook.  I hefty fish has taken the dropper and erupts into the air.  He tears downstream with me in hot pursuit.  I hit a muddy stretch, and my wading boots refuse to move.  So I stand there up to my knees in muck and gradually wear down the hard-fighting critter.  It turns out to be a colorful brookie, almost 13-inches long, a veritable leviathan in these waters. 

Brawny Brookie

I continue to probe the two foam lines just below the dam, and low and behold, soon hook and land a surprise brown trout in this brookie haven.  After a good battle he slides into my net, another fish pushing 12-inches. 

Surprise Brownie In Brookie Land

I fool a couple more willing brookies up close against the dam before the action quiets and I head upstream. The next pond has a beautiful foam line that breaks around a stand of dead trees where the bottom drops off.  On the first cast I land another brownie and follow that with a half dozen spunky brookies. 

The Next Honey Hole

Then I spot some fish rising on the opposite shoreline in a foam line that slides under some nasty looking branches.  Who can resist.  The pond is too deep to wade straight across, so I wade back downstream and perform a high-wire act across the dam to the other side successfully.  The Flying Wallendas aerialists have nothing on me! 

Then I bushwhack into position and carefully cast my rig into the maze of sticks and branches.  My old eyes have a hard time seeing the white wing of the Royal Stimulator in the foam line, but a hard jerk on my line lets me know something has dined on one of my flies.  It’s a nice brookie that surfaces with the San Juan Worm in its mouth. 

A Brookie Out Of The Thicket

On the next cast, I push my luck too far and get snagged on one of the grabby branches.  Fortunately, when I give my line one last hard tug, the branch breaks and my rig comes back in one piece with both flies.  I try again, and this time the flies some how dodge the snags, and immediately another brook trout nails the San Juan Worm.  And then another.

I’m thinking I should call it a day and not tempt fate by messing any further with the water thicket above but succumb and head up to the little pool just below the next dam that looks like it can’t miss.  I slide into place to throw a short cast up against the dam, and sure enough, another brookie just can’t resist.  But just as I reach for my net, I feel my left boot start to sink further into the muck, while my right boot refuses to move.  The result is a slow-motion fall sideways into a mud-covered sandbar.  There is no danger as the water is shallow, and I have to laugh while the cold water seeps into my waders as my left elbow sinks into the muck.  After a few tries, I manage to extricate and right myself.  But the brookie has won her freedom.  This is definitely a sign that I should leave the next pond above featuring a big dam and shoreline completely surrounded by a mass of dead trees and branches, for another day. 

This one has been a good one where persistence (or hard-headed stubbornness) has paid off.   As I leave, I tip my hat to the inimitable Wizards of Gnaws!! They have had the answer to the runoff riddle.

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