Ice Out Doubleheader–Grass Lake and Hunt Lake Near Salida, Colorado

I’m cruising through the Wet Mountain Valley on the last leg of my annual migration from Florida, eager to get a look at my home water, the Arkansas River, to see if it’s fishable.  My heart drops as I come down the hill into

North Fork Of The South Arkansas
North Fork Of The South Arkansas

Cotopaxi–the Big Ark is BIG.   When I check the water levels later I find it’s running at 3,500 cfs–I fancy myself a strong wader, but don’t go near it when it’s over 750.  AARRGGHH!!! Well, maybe the smaller creeks are in better shape….but no, when I cross the usually diminutive North Fork of the South Arkansas on the way to my cabin just outside Salida, I find it’s jumped it’s banks and is blown out.  Plan B seems to be in order–maybe a hike to one of the high country lakes near the hamlet of Monarch/Garfield, just up the road.  Next day I check in at my local fly shop, Ark Anglers, and get the good word.  Ice is out on Grass and Hunt Lakes, two of my early season favorites.  The weather report is perfect–70 degrees and sunny.  My alarm is set at 5:00 a.m!!  Grass Lake or bust!

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On the Road….To A Banana River Slam

Go West, young man, Go West–Horace Greeley

Rainy Season Florida-Style
Rainy Season Florida-Style

Westward Ho!  I am heading to Colorado for the summer, making tracks from the Everglades
to the Rockies to beat the heat and the rainy season.  You know when it’s time to leave Florida when you step outside and your eyelids start sweating!! I’ve packed up my mobile fish camp and will be on the road for two weeks, taking the northern route this year through Georgia and Tennessee then west.  I’ll be doing some piscatorial research along the way as sampling local cuisine and culture in two states I haven’t had the pleasure of driving the back roads.

My first stop will be Cape Canaveral and the Banana River Lagoon, near my old stomping grounds where I lived for

Tris Miles with big redfish on one of our last outings together
Tris Miles with big redfish on one of our last outings together

the past 6 years before moving to the Everglades in May.  I’ll be revisiting some of my old favorite angling spots in honor of my good friend and best fishing buddy, Tris Miles, who passed away last year after a tough battle with lung cancer.  We spent many good days together kayak fishing the Banana River No-Motor-Zone flanking the Kennedy Space Center.

The five-hour drive up from the Everglades goes smoothly, and I get set up quickly in a retro RV park called Carver’s Cove.  Despite being in the heart of bustling Cape Canaveral, it has dirt roads and big old shade trees, not to mention some frontage on the Banana River.  Then withimage some trepidation I walk down the narrow road to the dock to check the water conditions.  I’ve been reading about the algae blooms, growing pollution, and  intracoastal waterway fish kills here in the Banana and Indian Rivers.  The water isn’t as clear as usual–more like a watery pea soup–but on my third cast I get a jolting strike….and after a brief tussle reel in a nice baby tarpon!!  What a surprise.  Before the sun sets, I have caught a few small sea trout, everything on a red jig head with a root beer-colored grub with a chartreuse curly tail that seems to glow in the cloudy water.  It seems to be the ticket!  So, with visions dancing in my head of high-jumping snook shaking their booty and voluptuous sea trout, I head back to an early lights out.  The alarm is going off at 4:00 a.m!!

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Day Two Of Four Perfect Days Kayak Fishing In the Keys

Barracuda: A kind of fierce tropical fish that has strong jaws and sharp teeth

…Merriam-Webster Dictionary

For Day 3 trip see:

https://hooknfly.com/2017/03/27/day-three-of-three-perfect-days-kayak-fishing-in-the-keys/amp/

I’m headed out early again way before first light, creeping slowly out of the RV park in the dark, lights dimmed.  I hoping to avoid waking my sometime fishing and drinking buddies in their nearby trailers, an august assembly of accomplished tarpon and permit fishing mavens.  I’d have to explain how I could eschew those iconic game fish, instead pursuing a holy quest for as manyimage barracuda as I can catch (and release) in one day.  They already turn their noses up and make sport of me as the Kayak Cuda Buddha for my unfailing devotion to these toothy torpedoes!  My destination for this quest is the colorfully named Toptree Hammock Key.  The launch point is at the end of Niles Road on Summerland Key.

I’m on the water at first light, but even though the tide has just peaked, I am having to paddle rather than pedal in the shallow water as I head north.  I can hear the fins below the boat scraping Summerland Key Bridgeon the hard corals that dot this hard-bottom flat.  Which is a good sign usually because barracuda tend to prowl these areas.  Finally I make it to the old bridge that links Summerland to a series of smaller keys.  It was apparently blown out partially by the last big hurricane, so a span is missing, and the trail to it from the ramp is getting overgrown.  I’m continually amazed at all of the abandoned and storm-wrecked structures that abound in the Keys, testimony to the hardy and fool-hardy souls who actually lived on them, farmed them, and raised families before being driven off by hurricanes, bugs, disease, or the heat.  Most are overgrown and wild again, part of the Florida National Marine Sanctuary.  Maybe a harbinger of things to come as sea levels continue to rise down here.  But I’m not about to let dark thoughts of climate change deter me from my barracuda quest!  Those thoughts are better contemplated over a margarita.

As I creep closer, I see the falling tide is flowing hard around the bridge abutments, so I figure there must be some barracuda hiding there, picking off forage fish washing by.  My first cast with the trusty Mirrolure MR18 is greeted with a solid hit, and a nice 20″ barracuda comes to the boat after some strong runs.  A good start.  But the bubble is soon burst as my kayak runs aground on a grassy shoal near the bridge, and I discover the water is only a few inches deep under the span and far out into the Niles Channel to the east.  My hopes of joining the Century Club–catching over 100 fish–are starting to fade!  So somewhat dejectedly, I head further north towards Wahoo Key, where I find another expansive, beautiful hard-bottom flat.  I bail out of the kayak and begin wading in the beautiful clear water as the sun starts to light things up so I can see anything that moves.  I spot a couple of long darker forms near the shore that seem to be moving and loft a cast that way. One of the shadows darts towards the sinking lure and before I can even crank the reel once,  KERBLAM!!  

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Dawn of the NewYear: Chokoloskee Island

“Time is but the stream I go a-fishing in.” –Thoreau

One of my New Year’s resolutions is to be on the water at dawn on New
Year’images Day to see the first sunrise of the year…and so I am.   I peddle out from the launch point at 6:45 a.m. in my trusty Hobie Outback kayak and head towards the oyster beds just south of Chokoloskee Island, my new home.  The oyster beds are happy feeding grounds for fish, birds, and other critters.  I am not disappointed.  What a peaceful and hopeful feeling I have as the sun peeks over the clouds and welcomes in 2016.

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Halfway Creek–Deep In The Heart Of The Big Cypress Preserve

November 8, 2015 

“Most people cannot see beyond the Tamiami Trail to the heart of this vast region.  Many look but few see.  Few see the harmony of nature’s creation;  few understand the relation of terrain to animals, of animals to plant life, of plant life to water, and of water’s importance to the survival of man, beast, and plants.”–  From an historical study of the Big Cypress Swamp 

Satellite View Of Halfway Creek
Satellite View Of Halfway Creek

One of the real joys of living in Everglades City is being able to explore hidden wild creeks that flow slowly out of the Everglades, under the Tamiami Trail, then through the Ten Thousand Islands National Wildlife Refuge or the Big Cypress Preserve into the Gulf.  The Big Cypress Preserve covers almost 600,000 acres.  It is still home to the Seminole Indians who sought refuge here and were the only tribe never to surrender or be subdued.  One of my favorite haunts in the preserve is called Halfway Creek, a twisty turny creek deep in the preserve.  It gets its name because its mouth is located halfway between Everglades City and Chokoloskee Island.  Even on weekends it is rare to see anyone here although less than an hour from the teeming masses in Miami.

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