As if Covid and RSV infections are not enough to deal with, now south Florida saltwater anglers must grapple with another dreaded illness that has no known permanent cure: MANGROVE MADNESS!! Unfortunately, one of the vicissitudes of a life of fishing in the Everglades is the extreme likelihood that one will eventually contract this pernicious disease. How do you determine if you are afflicted? Common symptoms include repeatedly attempting to make nearly impossible long casts to tarpon hiding under overhanging mangrove branches or in log-infested, narrow backcountry creeks.
Another sure manifestation is venturing into claustrophobic mangrove tunnels filled with numerous snags, clutching branches, and sticky spider webs in search of elusive snook.
Fortunately, when I contracted this wicked malady, I immediately sought medical attention. The good news, my doctor informed me, was that the latest scientific piscatorial research reveals that, as he put it quite succinctly, “the tug is the drug.” In other words, it is curable only by catching and releasing prodigious numbers of truculent snook and high-flying tarpon in mangrove jungles and other infested overgrown locations.
Actually, I would later learn that there really is no cure. However, intensive on-the-water treatment several times a week reportedly can forestall deadly relapses. I urge all my fishing colleagues in the Everglades to take appropriate action to prevent succumbing to this mind-bending disease!!
Mangrove Madness Breeding AreaThe Tug Is The Drug!!Tarpon Lair–No Problem!
Tired of dodging motor boats, jet skis, and other human flotsam and jetsam when fishing the Florida Keys? Take a paddle on the wild side in the no-motor zones around little-known Lignumvitae and Shell Keys off Islamorada–and hold on tight for brawling barracuda, tenacious tarpon, and tackle-busting bonefish.
Download my article from the October 2023 issue of Florida Sportsman for the inside skinny…
Was gratified to see my article on exploring two remote wilderness creeks in Colorado as the lead feature piece in the Sept/Oct issue of American Fly Fishing magazine. Hope you enjoy it…and don’t miss the now infamous Parting Shot photo of me in a very indelicate position!
When you have lived three-quarters of a century, your mind often wanders back to friends and colleagues that have enriched your life. A couple of times a month I find myself getting on the phone (a cell phone, not a rotary dial model) and calling old buddies, former business partners, and the like, just to see how they are doing. Or when I am making my annual migrations back and forth between the Everglades in Florida and the high country of Colorado, I stop in to see the old gang and reminisce about the good times we had. In the back of my mind is always the question, will this be the last time our paths will cross. These aren’t sad affairs, far from it. They warm my heart and fill me with gratitude.
River and creeks are the same way. I now find myself wanting to revisit waters that I haven’t called on for a while, those that treated me to a memorable day of fly fishing along with a needed dose of nature and solitude. Some require a hike into a rugged canyon that my old knees may not allow in the future. Others are tricky wading with fast currents that my once cat-like reflexes could easily handle but now may result in a cold dunking…and maybe worse, like a broken hip.
This year several of this genre are on my dance card—Chavez Creek near Upper Dome Lake, the headwaters of Saguache and Cochetopa Creeks in the La Garita Wilderness, and Grape Creek in a remote canyon come to mind. All take some doing to get to. Another closer to home, Tomichi Creek, I find from my fishing journal I haven’t visited in almost four years despite its being only 45 minutes away from my cabin near Salida. She’s different than the others in that access and wading are easy. But she is one that I feel I must look after to make sure she’s still doing OK. If not, I may have to raise a little ruckus about the situation with the proper authorities.
For many years I would whiz by Tomichi Creek when traveling busy US Highway 50 on my way from my cabin to fish the fabled waters of the Gunnison River and its tributaries like the East River. Then in 2016, as I hustled down Monarch Pass just above the village of Sargents, I happened to see an official looking sign on a fence separating the stream from the highway, so I turned around to take a look. I was pleasantly surprised to find that that the Colorado State Land Board owns a full section of land along the road called Daley Gulch that is open to fishing.
Tomichi Creek/Daley Gulch Near Sargents
I made a mental note, and a few months later sampled her waters. I had a delightful day, catching some hard-fighting brown trout, several of which hit the 14-inch mark, not bad for a little creek less that 20 feet wide. The wildflowers along the stream were a bonus as was not seeing many boot marks. Later I would find another public stretch in a canyon just below Sargents and again had a banner day chasing brown trout.
Tomichi Creek Public Water West Of Sargents
Now five years have passed, and I am anxious to see how my friendly neighborhood creek has fared. Over this period, most of Colorado has been locked in a deep drought that has resulted in streams like Tomichi Creek and the Conejos River in southern Colorado being subjected to periodic closures in the summer due to low water flows and high temperatures that can be deadly to trout. Indeed, last summer when I was making my annual trip to the headwaters of Saguache Creek high in the La Garita Wilderness, I winced when passed by Tomichi Creek and saw it was barely a trickle. Further down towards Gunnison where water is sucked out for irrigation, the situation was even worse. It was like seeing an old friend on life support.
Like many waters in this part of Colorado, Tomichi Creek has a fascinating and often troubling history intertwined with mining. The creek was reportedly named along with a nearby peak from a Ute word for “dome-shaped rock.” Once silver was discovered in its watershed in the late 1800s, the creek had a rough go of it. The town of Tomichi, originally called Argenta, the derivative of the Latin word for silver, was by 1882 a booming mining camp with its own post office and bank, with a population of over 1,000. But it didn’t last long as the silver had to be transported over a very rough road 12 miles to the railhead in Sargents and periodic avalanches tore up the road and obliterated the mines. Even today, the damage from the mining can still be seen in the headwaters around White Pine where the U.S. Forest Service has undertaken major reclamation efforts.
Reclamation Work On Upper Tomichi Creek Near White Pine (Spelling Lessons Underway For “Tomichi”)
But in the meantime, in the lower reaches in the valley below, while the native cutthroat are gone, a substantial population of spunky brown trout have made the creek their home. Amazing what nature can do when given time to recover.
Fortunately, this past winter the snows in the rugged mountains above the Tomichi were deep, and spring rains added to the flows. When I checked the Colorado Division Of Water Resources streamflow site (dwr.state.co.us) in early August I was happy to see the creek flowing at 40 cfs at Sargents, a near perfect angling level. It was time to visit my old friend and make sure she was doing OK.
I’m on the road at 7:30 a.m. winding my way over Monarch Pass. It’s a short drive to the public stretch of the creek upstream of Sargents, so I’m soon at the gate below a big CDOT work site and then walking through the marshy terrain to the creek. I’ve rigged up my 8 ½ foot, 4 wt rod with a #16 gold body Chubby Chernobyl to imitate the scads of yellow hoppers in the meadow teamed with a #18 beadhead sparkle caddis larva. Caddis and mayflies love the Tomichi.
The Deadly Duo–Chubby Chernobyl (top) and Beadhead Sparkle Caddis Larva
I walk downstream to a wide bend in the creek and start working up. Surprisingly, in the first few good-looking pools where I have fooled trout before, today I draw a goose egg. I am already worrying that the creek isn’t doing so well since the last time I was here, which seems like just yesterday but was back in the summer of 2018. Then I come to a big bend in the creek that’s created a deep pool. The shoreline is covered with a profusion of gorgeous wildflowers—shooting stars, marsh buttercups, sunflowers, and daisies. I christen it the Wildflower Power Pool—and it delivers.
Wildflower Power Pool
Skyrockets
Marsh Buttercups
On the very first cast a spry little brownie nails the Chubby and puts up a good tussle before coming in for a quick photo and release. He’s followed quickly by another half dozen, one topping 13-inches.
FIRST FISH OF THE DAY
The action is steady as I work upstream. Soon I come to what I call the Leaning Tower Of Trout that shelters a short rapid which feeds into a deep pool.
The Famous Leaning Tower Of Trout
It never disappoints, and this time not only treats me with a couple of nice brownies but also surprises with the first and only brook trout of the day.
Surprise Brookie
That’s followed by some action at the old reliable irrigation diversion pool that harbors some big fish. It produces a couple of good browns, one on the dry and one on the dropper.
Irrigation Diversion Dam Pool Harbors Hungry Brownies
The second fish that took the Chubby is himself a tad chubby, a sure candidate for Weight Watchers.
Chubby Brownie Can’t Resist Chubby Chernobyl
Now I start to see a few boot marks as I get closer to the CDOT work site. The creek here is easier to access via the official parking area close to the CDOT facility and gets more pressure. However, as it has in the past, a big bend pool in this stretch produces a fine 14-inch brown that will be the biggest fish of the morning.
Beautiful Brown Trout Caps A Good Morning
I sit on the bank reflecting as I release the handsome fish. It appears my old friend Tomichi is just peachy! Now I wonder about the nearby canyon stretch just downstream of Sargents a mile or so. It is so close to the highway, literally a stone’s throw, that perhaps it hasn’t fared so well. It’s lunch time, so I decide to hustle down there, grab some victuals and an RC Cola to reenergize, then do take its temperature.
I park my SUV at a wide turnout on the north side of the highway and after a leisurely lunch make my way cautiously across the highway feeling a bit like an overmatched matador in a bull ring. I manage to avoid getting clipped by a couple of speeding pickups, then walk down a short distance and bushwhack my way through a stand of dense willows to the creek.
My first view boosts my spirits. The water is a clean green tint and there’s plenty of current. In the very first pool a nice brownie smacks the Chubby as it swirls around a big rock midstream. The good action continues on both the Chubby and the dropper as I work upstream. Interestingly, last time when I was here and the water was low, the fish were hiding in deeper runs along undercut banks. It took precise casts and drifts close against the shoreline to coax them out. Today with ample water I find them out carousing for food in faster, deeper runs away from the bank. That’s where I fool a brawling brownie that pushes 14-inches, then another sleek beauty below a rock ledge.
By now it’s almost five p.m., and I come to a deep pool that edges close to the highway, so close I can see vehicles speeding by. I come up empty and start to see lots more boot marks along the shoreline. Maybe time to call it a day? No, something tells me that the heavy willow growth I can see crowding the creek downstream may have dissuaded would-be anglers from venturing further. I have my chest waders on so can navigate to the next alluring bend pool in the creek instead of hackashacking through those pesky willows. I think to myself, “one more fish and I’ll call it a day.” I loft a cast upstream above the bend and watch as the Chubby bounces jauntily along in the current before swirling into the enticing green water of the pool. Then it’s disappears! I set the hook, and a shimmering golden brownie swirls on the surface with the sparkle caddis fly in his mouth. He cavorts back and forth before relenting.
Last Fish Of The Day
As I release the beauty, I think to myself, perseverance pays…nothing like catching one last fish on the last cast of the day. I tip my hat to my old friend Tomichi Creek, pleased to know she’s still doing just fine.
Grape Creek near Westcliffe, Colorado, is one of my favorite waters. Flowing some 20+ miles in a remote canyon between DeWeese Reservoir and Canon City with only five public access points, over the past decade it has proven to be a great brown trout fishery plus providing an occasional thrill of a big rainbow. But like most rivers in the West, Grape Creek has faced a series of threats including a huge gold mine in its watershed and wildly fluctuating water levels caused by irrigation demands and drought that have left water levels so low as to almost dry up the stream in summer. More recently a series of catastrophic floods in 2019 scoured insects and fish from the stream, leaving it a mere shadow of its former self.
I experienced firsthand the deleterious impacts of these floods when in 2020 I led a visiting fishing buddy from Florida on an expedition into the canyon, having promised him hungry fish, only to narrowly avoid being skunked after six hours of flailing the water. Two puny, malnourished brown trout helped avoid that ignominy. Fortunately, by my next outing on the creek in the summer of 2022 with the same buddy my reputation was restored–we fooled a couple of dozen brown trout, including a leviathan of 18-inches, in addition to a surprisingly good number of smaller rainbows.
Big Brownie Certifies Grape Creek Comeback
Later that fall I returned and found the rainbows outnumbering the brownies on the same stretch. It started me wondering what was up. Was this natural recovery and reproduction by those rainbows or had some fish escaped from DeWeese Reservoir miles upstream or migrated from the Arkansas River below? Maybe some stocking going on, although these rainbows didn’t have the bland colors and frayed fins common with hatchery trout.
Now it’s fast forward to 2023, and I am embarking on my first trip of the year to Grape Creek, a pre-birthday celebration as I turn three-quarters of a century old tomorrow! The weather is perfect as is the water level which has been a steady 23 cfs the past week. I have bushwhacked down into the canyon several miles below the lake.
Into The Wild Canyon
I am using my TFO 4# rod with a #16 Chubby Chernobyl in anticipation of a major hopper hatch with a #18 Tung Teaser to imitate the scads of mayfly nymphs I find scrambling around when I pick up a rock from the streambed.
I strike out in the first pool, but the second and third produce some smaller rainbows and browns. Not the hot action I expected. I check the rocks again and find far more caddis cases and larva, so switch the dropper to a #18 beadhead sparkle caddis larva. That proves to be the ticket.
The Deadly Duo–Gold Chubby Chernobyl and Beadhead Sparkle Caddis
Now the action is fast and furious. In a run below a short stretch of rapids I fool a couple of muscular rainbows, one almost 14-inches.
Rainbow On!
Next pool I get more rainbows and one 13-inch brownie, most on the dropper.
That pattern continues as I net another dozen fish by lunch in addition to several long-distance releases. But surprisingly, the rainbows predominate as I catch four bows to every brown, a remarkable turnabout from the years before the floods.
I again mull over the mystery as wolf down my lunch and quaff my RC Cola elixir. Natural reproduction? DeWeese or Arkansas River migrants? Stockers? I soon head downstream to test the various hypothesis with some serious piscatorial research. Now the hopper hatch is in full swing, and the Chubby Chernobyl excels as I work back upstream.
Hopper Hatch = Feeding Frenzy
I come to a favorite pool created by a giant boulder about 10 feet below a shallow rapid.
Big Boulder Honey Hole Pool And Rapids Above
I catch a rainbow and brown in the pool, then am surprised by a big rainbow that smashes the Chubby as it bounces down the rapids above. As soon as he feels the sting of the hook, pandemonium breaks loose as the feisty finned creature goes shooting downstream right by me. I do a graceful pirouette while issuing some choice expletives and then give chase. But just as I catch up with the rascal, he shoots back upstream past the boulder and actually climbs through the rapids into the pool above, much like a wild salmon would do. I reverse course and fortunately catch up when he decides to take a little rest. I finally slide my net under a beautiful, strapping 15-inch rainbow!
Rambunctious Rainbow
In the next pool downstream, I coax a 14-inch neon rainbow to strike as well as a respectable 13-inch brownie. For the next couple of hours I fool two or three trout in every pool or decent run. Overall for the day, I catch and release over three dozen fish with a 4:1 ratio of rainbows vs. brooks—almost just the opposite of the pattern before the floods. What gives?? The bows look and act wild with freckles all over their faces, sleek, perfect streamlined bodies, and plenty of spunk.
Several weeks later I navigate the rough, narrow 4wd road down to the creek at Bear Gulch, one of the few public access points.
View From Bear Gulch Road!
The creek here flows through a large spectacular Bureau of Land Management wilderness study area.
I saunter up the stunning canyon, taking time to enjoy the abundant wildflowers, butterflies, and groves of giant cottonwoods along the creek.
Tiger Swallowtail On Thistle BloomRed Whiskers
I have another excellent day catching and releasing a couple of dozen fish. The rainbow/ brown split is about 50:50 compared to my past forays when the browns outnumbered the rainbows nearly 10:1 in this stretch. Most of the fish measure 10-14 inches, although I see a few larger finning in the depths of some deep pools.
Now I am really flummoxed. So I make a mental note to contact the Salida office of Colorado Parks and Wildlife (CPW) to see what they think is behind the rainbow resurgence up and down Grape Creek.
When I called the next week I am lucky to connect with Alex Townsend, the helpful, knowledgeable aquatic biologist for the Arkansas River region, and he gave me the real skinny. Rainbows, a variety of which had been stocked throughout the creek since the late 1980s, were virtually wiped out by the floods of 2019. He tells me the brown trout seem to persist well in this system, bounce back better with natural reproduction, and are already showing some population growth, albeit slow. However, the flooding gave him a chance to stock a new whirling disease-resistant strain of rainbow trout that is a cross between a Hofer from Germany, that is naturally resistant, with rainbow from the Gunnison River. The Gunnison rainbows seem to have some natural resistance, are strong, wild fish, and have shown reproductive success. He hoped that stocking these rainbows would give them a head start over the browns that seem to do well on their own. He added that because the browns and rainbows have a somewhat different forage base and habitat, while there may be some competition, they don’t fully overlap. Also, they do not use the same reproductive habitat during the same time of the year—browns spawn in the fall and rainbows in the spring. My own experience this year and in the past supports Townsend’s point—I have caught many rainbows in faster, shallower water than browns which seem to favor deeper pools and slower runs.
CPW began stocking the hybrid rainbows from the Mt. Shavano Fish Hatchery near Salida in 2021 to the tune of 15,000 per year in 7-8 locations from the confluence of Grape Creek with the Arkansas near Canon City up to below DeWeese Reservoir. He added that the stocked fish were about 2”-3” in size with an annual growth rate of about three inches although this is highly dependent on habitat and forage. Some fish will grow faster and some slower, he explained. (The 15-incher I caught must have been feasting on those new steroid-infused hopper flies you can get at Ark Anglers.) Townsend noted that next year he will be evaluating the population through electrofishing to determine if natural reproduction is occurring.
After hearing this explanation from Alex, I felt a bit like the inimitable Mr. Watson having just been educated by a piscatorial Sherlock Holmes, Townsend having provided a cogent explanation of the curious case of the resurgent rainbows. Quite elementary my dear Mr. Watson!! It also gave me an even greater appreciation of the fine, hard-working folk at CPW like Alex. Kudos to them for protecting and enhancing our rivers and streams. They have created and maintained a wonderful fishery in Grape Creek with a vibrant mix of rainbows and browns. With climate change, habitat loss, and myriad other pressures our waters face, I am more thankful than ever for their efforts. If you have some spare time, Alex and his CPW colleagues are periodically looking for volunteers to assist in their important projects—give them a ring at 719-539-5520.