June 2024

For Fishing Act Two, see https://hooknfly.com/2024/07/02/mobile-fish-camp-shakedown-cruise-the-fishing-act-2/

Prelude:

I am back in Colorado getting ready for another trout fishing season.  I have fished for more than six decades, starting with catfish and bullhead in Kansas rivers and graduating to bluegill and bass on a fly rod in lakes then to trout.  The mobile fish camp of the day with my Dad was a hulking blue 1951 DeSoto car. 

Dad would sleep in the front seat and me in the back seat on a special platform he built over the huge drive shaft hump on the floor.  Great memories as we explored the rivers and lakes of central Kansas. 

Getting ready for those trips–gathering our gear, bedding, food, and other paraphernalia–was something akin to a religious ritual.  It felt even more so that way now as I loaded up my little travel trailer for dry camping in the boondocks of the Rocky Mountains.  Of course, being June most rivers around my cabin near Salida are blown out and the high mountain lakes are still iced in.  I have already tried the local beaver ponds with reasonable success, but I am now itching to try some new waters, and maybe even find a creek that’s fishable or some new beaver ponds.  With my little sweetheart granddaughter Aly and her daddy Matthew off to Las Vegas to visit family there, I have some time on my hands and decide to take a chance and explore.  With a Yuengling Amber Beer in hand, I sit on my front porch near Salida, Colorado, and contemplate my options. 

A tailwater creek or river would be a viable option during runoff as the flow would be more controlled and the water clearer.  One with some big beaver ponds in the vicinity would be a bonus.  Central and southern Colorado where I do most of my angling has several famous tailwaters below big lakes like the South Platte flowing out of Antero and a series of other reservoirs, the Blue River below Dillon Reservoir, and the Arkansas River below Pueblo Reservoir.  But those waters with their relatively easy access and proximity to big population centers are typically overrun with anglers during runoff.  Not my cup of tea.  But there are other options further south and west like La Jara Creek below La Jara Reservoir (near Alamosa), Grape Creek below Deweese Reservoir (near Westcliffe), North Clear Creek below Continental Reservoir (near Creede), Tarryall Creek below Tarryall Reservoir (near Lake George) and Archuleta Creek below the Dome Lakes (near Gunnison).  Several of them also feature productive beaver ponds nearby. 

 After some digging and rumination, I chart a five-day trip focused on the contiguous Cochetopa and Dome Lakes State Wildlife Areas about 75 miles southwest of my cabin and 45 miles southeast of Gunnison.  I have camped and fished this area before. 

It is remote, but not too remote, high but  at “only” 9,500 feet not so high as to be iced in, very scenic and it’s unlikely there will be many anglers around this early in the season.  The gravel roads in the area are usually in good condition, and Gunnison is only 45 minutes away in case I need fuel, food, or whatever. Little Archuleta Creek flows out of Lower Dome Lake, a true tailwater that joins Cochetopa Creek a mile or so below the dam.  Several tributaries of Cochetopa Creek above the Dome Lakes also sport some excellent beaver ponds. 

 I figure it will be good preparation for more ambitious trips in the July-to-October prime trout season in the Rockies.  I can get everything organized and in ship shape—the proverbial shakedown cruise. 

I can avoid problems later when in the wilds.  As it turns out, it was a good practice run as I made some rookie mistakes that could have been real disasters in the more remote backcountry.  Here are a few I can laugh at now, especially since the fishing, the description of which follows a summary of these memorable rookie mistakes, was excellent!

Rule #1:  Always thoroughly test the trailer water, propane gas, batteries, and solar panels before you shove off.  Double check the gas! I dutifully drained the antifreeze in the water system on my travel trailer, flushed it out and refilled the water tanks.  I tested the new water pump, and it hummed efficiently.  Next, I filled the propane tanks and carefully tested each of the three gas burners on the stove.   They all functioned perfectly, and then I ran the gas furnace and checked the gas connection that would run the little refrigerator.  The batteries were next.  I charged them up and tested the solar panel that would keep them humming in the boondocks, allowing me to have light in the trailer and recharge my cell phone after the daily quotient of photos of the scenery, wildflowers, wild animals, and big fish.  After all that activity, I retired to the front porch to enjoy the view and have a glass of wine.

I was admiring the Western Tanagers, Black-Headed Grosbeaks, and assorted hummingbirds on the bird feeders when I heard a cheeping noise coming from out back beyond the trailer among the pinon trees and sage.  Maybe a new bird for my list??  I crept quietly around the cabin in the direction of the cheeping but couldn’t see anything.  The chatter continued.  I slyly pulled out my cell phone and opened the Merlin bird app from the Cornell School of Ornithology and held it high in the air.  It identifies birds by their calls.  I could tell the app was struggling, but it finally identified the call of a spotted towhee, a shy bird that frequents the area.

Next morning when I awakened, I heard the phantom towhee who was continuing to cheep merrily away.  After finishing breakfast, I snuck outside to see if I could spot him.  Then I realized the call was coming from my travel trailer.  I opened the door and sure enough a little black box near the floor under a window was sounding off.  I unplugged the device and found it was a propane gas detector. 

But there was nothing using gas on in the cabin.  The note on the box said it should be replaced every years, and my trailer just turn seven, so I thought it must be defective and was ready to toss it into the trash when I happened to glance over to the stove….and saw that one burner was not fully off and not lit!  It was turned to the lowest setting when I tested it, but apparently I had not shut it off completely and it had been running all night long.  I quickly turned it off and bailed out of the trailer.  Since propane gas is odorless, no telling what might have happened if it had continued to slowly leak gas into the trailer and I had lit a match!  Yikes!!

Rule #2:  Always check the hitch, lights, tires, and inside of the trailer one last time after you drive it a short distance.  The driveway down from my cabin to the nearest county road is a tad rough.  I take it slowly and always stop at the bottom of the driveway just before turning onto the county road to check things.  Everything looked good from the outside, but when I opened the door, I was met by a river of white liquid that was oozing out of the refrigerator and across the floor to the door.  I tiptoed around the white flow and opened the refrigerator.  Inside was a frothing lake of white milk covering most everything.  Turns out I had not tightened the cap sufficiently on the quart milk box, and it proceeded to leak out over everything below it—lunch meat, fruit, tomatoes, corn on the cob, you name it!  AARRGGHH!  Quite a mess, but fortunately I caught it before it coated the entire frig interior not to mention the floor of the trailer. 

Rule #3:  Double check the trailer brakes and 4WD before hitting the main highway.  As noted, my driveway is bumpy and steep, always reminding me to test the trailer brakes and put the SUV into four-wheel drive to slow the descent while give it a little test.  Unfortunately, in the hubbub over the spilled milk, I forgot to switch back into 2WD and proceeded to drive for 45 miles in 4WD at speeds to 60 mph before noticing my error.  The owner’s manual cautions never to drive in 4WD over 55 mph.  Luckily I appear to have dodged a bullet as the 4WD performed flawlessly throughout the trip in more suitable terrain at acceptable speeds. 

Rule #4:  Always set blocks under the trailer tires before unhitching from the SUV.   When I got to Upper Dome Lake where I would be camping in a state wildlife area, I was anxious to get on a nearby creek which appeared to be high but fishable.  I unlocked the trailer ball and cranked it down from the hitch receiver on the SUV.  I moved the SUV forward and went about leveling the trailer.  But before I could finish the job, a huge gust of wind, probably more than 40 mph, swept over the trailer and BANG, pushed the trailer jack/hitch off the block of wood it was resting on.  The trailer skidded forward a half dozen feet, coming close to crashing into the SUV.  I had to struggle for 30 minutes to get the trailer hitch jacked up high enough to reconnect it back to the hitch on the SUV and then maneuver the trailer back into position.  This would have been easily avoided by the simple act of setting the tire blocks first before unhooking the trailer.  Lesson learned. 

Unfortunately, I didn’t realize till later that the trailer jack had been damaged.  Fortunately the jack crank still worked, if barely. I was able to hitch the trailer up to the SUV when I headed home a few days later and get a new new trailer jack pronto.

Day 1—Archuleta Creek Headwaters

Surely things had to get better after this auspicious debut!!  And they did.  Although the wind continued to howl, blowing hard from the northeast at 20-30 mph, after a quick lunch I was able to find some shelter from it on the headwaters of nearby Archuleta Creek which lays in a wind shadow of the magnificent Cochetopa Dome.  The dome is a fascinating geological feature that dominates the valley.  It is the center of an extinct giant volcano that collapsed millions of years ago.  The caldera of the collapsed volcano, now a vast landscape of sage and prairie vegetation, was an incredible 20 miles wide!

Tiny Archuleta Creek arises from the hills of the Cochetopa Caldera to the south of Upper Dome Lake where it is dammed a mile or so down the valley.  It’s so small in its headwaters that even a septuagenarian can easily to jump across in places.  Surely there can’t be fish here.  Indeed over a period of 15 years exploring this area, I have never seen another angler on upper Archuleta—just bovine visitors grazing in the meadow.  But appearances are definitely deceiving.  The narrow runs between the big bends are often two-to-three feet deep, and the bend pools provide perfect habitat for the trout—brookies, browns, rainbows, and tigers.  Indeed, it is possible to score a mountain trout grand slam here in a day.  The casting under the best of conditions is extremely challenging and stealth is mandatory given the size of the stream.  The wind gusts were going to make things even more interesting. 

I park my SUV about a quarter mile south of the turn onto CR ­­NN14 that separates the creek from the backwaters of Upper Dome Lake. Before hopping over a low section of the barbed wire fence that parallels the road and heading downstream, I pause to soak in the beautiful scene—the majestic peaks of the rugged eastern San Juan Mountains in the background. 

The terrain is soft and marshy.  I am wearing chest waders and carrying my wading staff, but hip boots would probably do as well.  I know from previous experience there are caddis in these waters, so tied on a #16 green sparkle caddis larva below a #16 Royal Stimulator that is a decent caddisfly or grasshopper imitation—although I don’t see any flies on the water or risers.  There is a smattering of small grasshoppers in the grass.

The water is high, but i, and only slightly discolored, with visibility at about one foot deep.  On my third cast a spunky brook trout inhales the dry fly as it floats down into a bend pool and puts up a worthy battle before sliding in my next for a quick photo. 

That starts two hours of steady action as I move carefully upstream.  Soon in a narrow, deep run a bit further up, a colorful rainbow nails the caddis dropper. 

Surprisingly, most of the fish which run from 10-12 inches prefer the dry fly.  My audience of cows and calves do not seem to be impressed and trotted off insouciantly.  Before long, I come to an irrigation drop structure with a wide deep pool below it.  I cast to the top of the pool and watched as the dry floats jauntily in the foam line along the shoreline–before something big busts it in a showy splash.  It looks like a brown trout.  He cavorts around the pool but before long I am easing him towards the net as I think of the bragging I will be able to do over the photo with my fishing pals…until he manages to snarl the line on an unseen subsurface snag and twist off.  He is easily the biggest of the day, probably 15 inches.  My bruised ego is quickly salved, however, by a couple of 12-inch plus rainbows in the same pool that inhale the Royal Stimulator.  I fish upstream another 15 minutes or so upstream, catching a few more brookies, before deciding to call it a day.  I am tuckered out after all the trailer hi-jinks and the thought of taking it easy in a lounge chair with a libation while enjoying the views back at camp of Dome Lake and the Cochetopa Dome is irresistible.  So that’s what I do. 

Later, after dinner as the sun sets, I relish the changing colors on the Cochetopa Dome and the dancing colors as the sun sets to the west.  Not a bad first day.

Day Two:  Upper Dome Lake And Middle Archuleta Creek

I rise early the next morning, courtesy of the wind gusts shaking the trailer.  I peer out the window and see whitecaps churning on the lake.  This doesn’t look like a day for flyfishing to say the least, on either Upper or Lower Dome Lakes or the tailwater section of Archuleta Creek below.  To make matters worse, when I check my phone I discover that the USB charging port in the trailer isn’t working and my cell battery is perilously close to dead.  Damn!  How am I going to take photos of all those big fish and the wonderful scenery?? But wait, I remember I just bought a portable power bank that lets me recharge the phone on the go.  Congratulating myself on my perspicacity, I plug in the phone and in less that 30 minutes it is fully recharged, as if by magic. 

‘The power bank will be a life saver, recharging my phone each night with enough juice left for one or two more.

But after the battery incident and in the face of gale force winds,  what does any self-respecting fly fisher do?  Tie some flies? Clean his fishing line? Pout?

Heck NO, he gets out is trusty ultra-light spincast outfit from a secret hiding place in the trailer, grabs a box of lures, and heads down to the lake where the dam provides a small shadow of quieter water.   I tie on an old-reliable silver/blue Kastmaster spoon, and the fun begins immediately. 

I throw a long cast out to a spot where I see some swirls in the water, let it sink a few feet, then begin a herky-jerky retrieve.  As the lure nears the shoreline rocks, I see a silvery flash and feel a good hit.  I set the hook, and my rod bends perilously.  It’s a nice 13-inch shiny rainbow who takes to the air several times before coming ashore. 

He will be the first of a dozen or so cooperative bows that make for a fun and lively morning.  A flight of striking violet-green swallows adds to the scene as they dip and dart over the water, gobbling down tiny insects for breakfast.

After lunch, the wind ebbs a tad, so off I go to fish Archuleta Creek below the dams, a true tailwater that is running a little high but crystal clear.  As I make the circuit around Upper Dome Lake in my SUV and then turn downstream, I am pleased to see my Florida White Pelican fan club has followed me up from the Everglades where I spend the winter chasing snook and tarpon.  They are clearly expecting to receive some fishy treats like a ladyfish or snapper that often nail our offerings down there.

The Archuleta Creek tailwater can be divided into three sections.  The first extends about a quarter of a mile below Lower Dome Lake to a high barb wire fence a few hundred upstream of a turnout (Marked in red.) on CR NN14.  The middle stretch extends from the big fence past the turnout that is marked by an informational sign with fishing regulations.  Just below the turnout is a stile that allows anglers to climb over another barbed wire fence that parallels the road and then fish either upstream to the high barbed wire fence noted above at the bottom of the first stretch or walk downstream into the third stretch.  The third stretch starts about a quarter mile downstream from the turnout and continues to the confluence with Cochetopa Creek.  All three stretches are serpentine, marked by deep bend pools.

As I come to the turnout, I high am surprised to see another angler downstream who looks to be an older gent like me. Perched high above the creek, I watch him cast and hook a trout.  He continues working upstream, wading right down the middle of the creek with the grace of a water buffalo.  Even at a distance, I can see wakes of fish fleeing before him.  These tailwaters are crystal clear, with shallow runs interspersed with alluring bend pools. 

Stealth is mandatory, and I try to stay out of the water whenever possible.  Indeed, I often find myself kneeling to maintain a low profile when casting.  If you don’t, you will spook the fish in the shallow stretches hiding undernearth aquatic vegetation, and they will flee wildly upstream leaving prominent wakes as they alert their brethren to the intruder.

With the middle stretch occupied I opt to fish the upper section and turn my vehicle around and head back up to Lower Dome Lake where I leave the SUV in a parking area next to the lake.

Then I hike downstream about a 10 minutes until I come to the imposing barbed wire fence that extends from the road to the creek, marking the upper boundary of the middle stretch.  I will work back upstream from here, giving the older gent plenty of room. It is about 2:30 p.m. as I approach the stream.  The tall hills to the northeast of the creek are providing some shelter from the wind.  That will make casting a little easier.  The water is a tad high, up in the shoreline vegetation in some stretches, but not too bad. The creek is crystal clear and registering at 62 degrees on my thermometer.  I see fish dimpling the surface.  As I prepare to cast, one spies me and jets downstream.  Slow down, I say to myself!  I let things calm down and then check some streambed rocks to see what the menu of the day looks like.  The rock is loaded with caddis cases.  I squeeze one and a little bright green larva appears. 

Looks like sparkle green caddis dropper time with the Royal Stimi on top. 

On my second cast to the bend pool above, a good fish intercepts the caddis larva and erupts into the air when I set the hook.  Soon a beautiful golden brown comes to the net, measuring almost 14-inches.  A good start. 

The action is steady on both the surface and the dropper as I continue upstream.  The casting in this section can be tricky in parts as the creek winds in  and out of a barbed wire fence that parallels the water to the north. 

Before long, I come to another tempting bend pool.  Looks like a can’t miss…and it is.  On my first cast, a big trout, his side glinting gold in the sun, inhales the dry as it floats into the pool.  The battle is on, the trout tearing downstream right at me.  I stand and stomp my boot foot in the water.  The trout sees me, does an abrupt 180, and jets back to the pool.  He tries to flee upstream round the bend, but I put on the pressure with my 8 ½ foot, 4# rod, and succeed on turning the fish.  He’s a big handsome 16-inch brown trout covered head to tail with striking spots set against his yellow-gold body.  He soon is swimming back to his lair, shimmering in the sun as he goes.

I continue to work up stream carefully, concentrating on the bend pools.  Every one yields a fish or two, and I start to pick up some fat brookies that add to the pleasure. 

By the time I reach my SUV it’s almost 4:30. In a bit under two hours I have fooled 20 or so fish, predominantly brown trout with most on the dry, including two that break the 16-inch mark.  Afternoon delight!! Can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings. 

For the rest of the story, See The Fishing: Act 2 (COMING SOON)